Belgian Ale–Braised Mussels

From Steak with Friends: At Home, with Rick Tramonto by Rick Tramonto with Mary Goodbody

Mussels are often overlooked when we think of shellfish; clams and oysters are favored in the United States. However, mussels are absolutely delicious and have a mild, briny taste that can only come from the sea. And they are inexpensive, which adds to their appeal. Always buy fresh mussels and cook them within a day of purchase. Choose those with tightly closed shells and avoid any with broken or chipped shells. Remove them from the packaging when you get home, wrap them in a moist towel, and refrigerate the mussels until you cook them. This keeps them alive.

Cooking the mussels in a heady broth of ale, smoked ham, garlic, and herbs leaves them bursting with great flavor. I like to use Belgian-style ale for its earthy, from-the-pub flavor, but you can use any beer you like. There is nothing fussy about eating mussels; serve these in a big bowl in the center of the table as an appetizer. To make a meal out of these, just add a salad and soup. Don’t forget some crusty bread to sop every last drop of the cooking juices. Serves 4

2 pounds mussels
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup diced smoked country ham (about 4 ounces)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 shallot, minced
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 (12-ounce) bottle Belgian-style ale
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 crusty baguette, cut into 1-inch-wide slices

Under cool water, scrub each mussel’s shell with a stiff-bristled brush. Remove the byssus thread (or beard), which connects the mussel to rocks in the water. Grab the fibers with your fingers and pull them out, tugging toward the hinged point of the shell.

In a medium-size saucepan or skillet, heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. After the butter melts, add the ham and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until crispy and the fat has rendered.

Add the garlic, shallot, and thyme and cook in the rendered fat over medium-low heat for about 2 minutes, or until soft. Add the mussels, stir to coat with the vegetables and pan juices, and cook for about 1 minute.

Add the beer, cover the pan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, until all the mussels open. (Discard any that do not open.)

Add the parsley, tarragon, basil, lemon juice, and the remaining tablespoon of butter. Toss to distribute the herbs and lemon juice and allow the butter time to melt. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Using a slotted spoon, serve them in a large bowl or divide the mussels evenly among 4 smaller bowls. Pour the broth from the pan over the mussels, and serve with the bread.